Heishi Beads

Heishi Beads

When it comes to beaded jewelry, few styles capture the essence of both traditional and contemporary style like Heishi (pronounced HEE-SHEE) beads. These small, disc-shaped beads are steeped in history and craftsmanship that span generations.

Heishi Bead History

Heishi beads have a history that dates back over a thousand years, originating from the Puebloan peoples of the American Southwest, particularly the Santo Domingo (Kewa) Pueblo. The word "Heishi" means "shell" in the Keresan language, reflecting the material's original use. These beads were traditionally made from natural materials like shells, turquoise, and other stones, meticulously shaped into thin, smooth discs.

Handmade Heishi Beads

Creating Heishi beads is a labor-intensive process that requires patience and precision. Traditionally, artisans begin by selecting the raw material, which could be shells, stones, or other natural elements. The material is then chipped into small, rough shapes. These pieces are drilled through the center and strung together, often on a piece of string or wire.

Then, the beads are meticulously ground and shaped by hand, usually using sandstone or another abrasive surface. This grinding process smooths the rough edges, creating uniform, disc-shaped beads that are both smooth to the touch and pleasing to the eye. This attention to detail ensures each bead is unique, with its own character and charm.

Modern vs. Traditional Methods and Materials

Traditionally, heishi beads are smooth flat discs, but today the term is used to refer to any small beads that are strung together. 

20" triple strand necklace with magnesite, turquoise, vinyl, brass, and Ghana glass - David Aubrey

 

Traditional Heishi beads were made primarily from shells, coral, and turquoise. Modern Heishi beads encompass a wider variety of materials.


Traditional Materials:

  • Shells: The original material, often from the spiny oyster or clam shells.
  • Turquoise: A beloved stone for its vibrant blue-green hues.
  • Coral: Valued for its striking red color.

CO160 Harpo Necklace Turquoise and Shell - Harpo

 

Modern Materials:

  • Gemstones: Including lapis lazuli, jade, and amethyst, adding a touch of luxury and color variety.
  • Wood: Offering a rustic, earthy feel.
  • Metal: Gold, silver, and copper Heishi beads add a contemporary twist, perfect for mixed-media designs.
  • Glass and Acrylic: Lightweight and available in a myriad of colors, these materials offer versatility for modern jewelry makers.

Cowrie Bead Necklace in Electric Violet a single-strand blue howlite and amethyst beaded necklace with chrysoprase cowrie shell focal - Lizzie Fortunato

Heishi Beads in Modern Jewelry

Heishi beads are perfect for color blocking in jewelry. Using bold, contrasting colors in distinct blocks or sections can create a striking visual impact and stunning patterns.

By alternating vibrant hues of turquoise, coral, and lapis lazuli, or combining metallic and matte finishes, designers can craft pieces that are both eye-catching and contemporary. This technique not only highlights the individual beauty of each bead but also allows for personalized and bold fashion statements.

Today, Heishi beads are used in a wide array of jewelry designs, from simple bracelets and necklaces to intricate, multi-strand creations. Their versatility makes them a favorite among designers looking to blend traditional elements with contemporary styles. They can be used as spacers, accents, or the main attraction in a piece, offering endless possibilities for creativity.

Rose Quartz Heishi Beaded Bracelet - T. Randall Jewelry
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